Some close friends are having a birthday party in a few weeks. They are great hosts, there will no doubt be good music and absolutely no doubt there will be good food. They have taken me up on my offer to make bread and they have requested Ciabatta- enough for 30!
So this weekend I thought I’d better practice. I have tried a number of recipes over the years, and the one that I like the best is from Jeffrey Hamelman’s book called ‘Bread, a baker’s book of techniques and recipes’. Below is a my own adaptation of his recipe.
As I understand it Ciabatta is not a bread with an ancient history but was invented about 50 years ago in Italy and it’s name comes from the Italian word for slipper. What I want to see when I make Ciabatta is a soft and very holey inside and a beautiful golden crust – best eaten straight away, dipped in olive oil. To get really big holes the dough needs to have a higher percentage of water than usual and needs careful handling. Its a yeast dough and you make it in two stages- starting the night before with a Poolish. This is a mixture of roughly equal quantities of water and flour with a little bit of yeast, which ferments slowly for at least 12 hours. This mixture is then added to more flour water and yeast as well as salt to make up a loose mixture which will be your final dough.
1 cup white bread flour
1 cup water
1/8 tsp of instant dried yeast (from sachet)
2 1/2 cups flour
3/4 cup water
1/2 tsp instant dried yeast
1 1/4 tsp salt
1. Mix together the poolish ingredients in a bowl. Cover with shower cap or cling film and let it sit at room temperature for 12-16 hours. It will be dotted with bubbles by this stage
2.Mix all the other ingredients, except the salt, into the bowl, cover and let it sit for 1/2 hour.
3. Add the salt, dispersing it evenly across the top of the dough and fold by scooping up dough from the bottom of the bowl with a large spoon and folding it over the top. Do this 3 or 4 times and leave, covered for 1/2 hour
4. Fold again 3 or 4 times and let it sit for another hour then repeat the folding
5. Fold again in the same way and leave for another hour. It should then be very billowy and puffy- if not leave it for another hour
6. Put the dough on to a floured surface and cut in half with a wet knife or dough scraper and then lightly flour each half.
7. It will be quite sticky so you’ll need to keep your hands floured. Gently stretch the dough from the top and fold it back on itself. Then stretch and fold the dough from the bottom
8. Place each piece of folded dough onto a floured board and gently stretch it out a bit so it is roughly rectangle shaped
9. Cover each batch of dough with a cloth and leave to rise for about an hour.
10. After 1/2 hour pre-heat the oven to 245 degrees C
11. Now for the tricky part; you need to gently pick up each batch of dough and spread out your fingers underneath it as you do so and place on a floured baking tray. You may find you need to unstick small sections from the floured board- this is fine. I find that if you dimple it a little by pressing down in a few places with your fingers you’ll get a better, flatter shape at the end, because you don’t want a domed shape loaf.
12. Place a small baking dish on the bottom of the oven with a cup of boiling water to create steam
12. Place the doughs into the oven and bake for about 20 minutes until its golden brown and sounds hollow when you tap it from the bottom
I have posted this on wild yeast http://www.wildyeastblog.com
take a look at the blog
Since my last blog I’ve been to New York for a long weekend. If you’ve never been and you love great food, fantastic art galleries, great bookshops and being in an exciting lively city then you must go. Just before I left, my cousin, knowing how obsessive I am about bread, sent me a link to a recent New York Times article about Chad Robertson and his fabulous bakery Tartine. At the bottom of the article was a link to 5 great breads to eat in New York. Did the New York Times actually know that I was about to go, I ask myself? I can think of nothing more useful to help plan my trip.
I was going to accompany my dear Dad who was speaking at the UN at an event on teaching the Holocaust through the Arts and we were only going to be there for a long weekend. I knew I’d have to plan carefully all the things we wanted to do, so I wasn’t going to have a huge amount of time for bakeries. I had considered going to Jim Lahey’s Sullivan Street Bakery, which is of course one of the bread shrine’s of the world in my opinion- but I have been there before.
Here’s the link to the article about Chad Robertson’s wonderful bread
BY SUZANNE LENZER
Chad Robertson’s recipe has reached cult status among passionate home bakers.
and here’s the link to find out about 5 great bread’s in New York
As luck would have it, we needed to find a great place for Sunday Brunch in order to meet up with a cousin of my father’s. One of the recommended breads came from Layfayette, which is both a bakery and cafe, so that’s where we went. The first thing I ordered was some slices of their magnificent looking baguettes
My Dad loved it- and then enjoyed a delicious eggs benedict with brioche toast- mmm…
I do recommend Lafayette- a perfect brunch spot
We both really enjoyed the Holocaust Education through the Arts event. He was talking about developing his website on music in the Camps and Ghettos. Here’s the link to the film of the event. His bit is at 1 hour 30mins.
Do take a look at the music in the holocaust website too
Have you ever tried Matzah? Its the type of cracker eaten for 8 days during the festival of Passover- when Jews are not supposed to eat anything leavened. Its generally white and tasteless. Can you imagine – me not baking or eating bread for this long!! In the words of that great Jewish scholar Lemony Snicket:
‘It is altogether proper that matzah is called the bread of affliction, because it has been afflicted more than any other foodstuff on earth. It is born in a searing-hot oven and then completely ignored for fifty-one weeks of the year while people walk around shamelessly eating leavened bread and crackers. Then, Passover rolls around…’ For more wise words from Lemony, see the New American Haggadah http://www.amazon.com/American-Haggadah-Jonathan-Safran-Foer/dp/0316069868
So- what’s to do, but try making my own Matzah. I searched online for recipes and finally found one that sounded good from the New York Times – Matzah made with olive oil. Well, I tried the recipe and I have to report, dear reader, that it was absolutely disgusting- and I threw it all away. So I searched my extensive bread book library and Peter Reinhart came up trumps in his ‘ Wholegrain Bread Book’ http://www.amazon.co.uk/Peter-Reinharts-Wholegrain-Breads-Extraordinary/dp/1580087590. His recipe is made totally with whole grain flour- I thought that may be a bit much- so my recipe below has white flour and rye as well as whole grain.
So, why do we eat Matzah at this time of year? (Passover starts on Monday night) It’s in order to remember the Children of Israel coming out of Egypt and not having enough time to bake bread. In order for Matzah to be kosher its supposed to take no longer than 18minutes from the time the water is mixed with the flour, until it is baked- that way it has no chance to ferment. So I reckon if I’m going to do this- I might as well try and go the whole hog (ok, I shouldn’t have used that word) and try and do the 18 minutes thing. A food processor is very handy because it speeds things up- although I don’t suppose they had food processors in the desert!
1 1/4 cups white bread flour
1/4 cup whole grain flour
1/4 cup rye flour
1/2 tsp salt
3/4 cup water
1. Place the flours and salt in a food processor and wiz to mix
2. Add the water and process until it’s just beginning to come together into one ball (if its not coming together you may need to add a little more water)
3. The dough should feel a little tacky but not sticky- so you may need to need in a little flour if its too sticky
4. Pre-heat the oven to 180 degrees F
5. Divide the dough in half and then cut one of the halves into 4 pieces
6. Flour your surface lightly and roll each piece with a rolling pin into a circle or rectangle until it begins to shrink back
7. Now roll each one out further until it is about 1/8 inch thick. You’ll need to keep your worksurface lightly floured so that it doesn’t stick
8. Put the rolled out dough on a baking sheet and then prick it all over with a fork
9. Bake in the oven for about 5 or 6 minutes and then check it. It may need about 2 or 3 minutes more. Its ready when its lightly browned on both sides
Try it with butter and jam- it pretty good. Or anything that goes with butter for that matter.
I have posted this on wild yeast’s yeast spotting
When it comes to pizza, I find that everyone has their own particular preference for what they like and what they definitely don’t like. My daughter is horrified by the idea of anyone having pineapple on pizza- and I must say I agree. I really don’t like thick doughy crusts and my husband doesn’t like capers. Some people have a preference for when and how they eat pizza- I think you have to eat it with your fingers- and my father in law thinks that pizza does not constitute real dinner and should only be eaten as a snack.
Now I’ve gone through a litany of what people don’t like, I want to tell you what I think makes for a good pizza. You have to have a thin and crispy dough, with a generous amount of mozzarella, a great tomato sauce and grated parmesan and the moment it comes out of the oven you need to sprinkle it with rocket. There are other great pizza toppings like anchovies, olives, thinly sliced red onion, chorizo and when my husband’s not looking, capers. It needs to be baked in a blisteringly hot oven, with a little semolina to stop it from sticking and giving it an extra crunchy bottom.
The other important part of the pizza making experience is having a pizza stone that you pre-heat, a wooden pizza peel for transferring the pizza on to the piping hot pizza stone and a metal pizza peel for taking it out of the oven. You can get all these items from Bakery Bits on line http://bakerybits.co.uk, John Lewis or the beautiful kitchen shop Divertimenti. However if you don’t have this equipment, don’t worry you can use a baking tray, on which you assemble the pizza and then put the whole thing into the pre-heated oven.
Ingredients for the dough
3 cups white bread flour
1 1/2 cups water
1 tblsp olive oil
1/2 tsp instant yeast
1 1/4 tsp salt
a little semolina
First thing this morning I made a no knead bread dough, by mixing the flour yeast and salt together and then stirring in the water and olive oil. I then covered it with a shower cap (see no knead bread recipe in previous blog if you want more detail). I left it on the counter all day and when I came back from work it had developed well.
I folded it several times to get most of the air out and then put it onto a floured counter and cut it in half with a dough scraper (mine comes from bakery bits) and then I cut one of the halves into two pieces
I then rolled out these 2 quarters into circles, making sure I had plenty of flour on the work surface and it wasn’t sticking, and covered it with cling film.
(I put the rest of the dough in a bowl in the fridge and will make it into a small loaf of bread tomorrow)
I pre-heated the oven to 245 degrees F, with the pizza stone in the oven, for half an hour and then got the pizza toppings ready
Pizza topping ingredients
tomato sauce made with an onion, a tin of chopped tomatoes and some fresh basil
one 220g ball of mozzarella, per pizza, cut into small pieces
half a red onion thinly sliced
sun dried tomatoes chopped
thinly sliced chorizo
and any thing else you like on pizza
Next I sprinkled a little semolina on to the wooden pizza peel
and I carefully placed the dough on the pizza peel, by rolling it round the rolling pin and unrolling it on to the peel
I then put the pizza ingredients on it – laying the mozzarella on to the tomato sauce, followed by the sundried tomatoes, parmesan and the red onion on the top
When the oven had pre-heated I transferred it to the pizza stone and baked it for 10 minutes
I took it out of the oven with my metal pizza peel and put it on to a big bread board
and covered it with rocket.
Within moments it all disappeared!
I then made a second pizza- two was just about enough for 3 people
Do try this recipe and let me know how you get on- it’s really is easy
I’m going to submit this blog to yeast spotting- take a look its a great website: http://www.wildyeastblog.com/category/yeastspotting/
I have a number of friends who only eat Wheat free or Gluten free bread. They complain that this bread is a) expensive b) brick like. So by popular demand here is my recipe from my second attempt at making Gluten free bread. (I don’t need to tell you about the details of my first loaf- but the words ‘heavy’ and ‘dry’ and ‘hardly touched by my family’ spring instantly to mind) This loaf however was tasty and aerated throughout- so much so that when I brought it in to work today to share it at lunchtime, two of my friends said ‘I can’t believe its Gluten free’ and it got wolfed down pretty quickly. It went really well with aged Gouda and pear chutney- mmm…
My inspiration came from Emmanuel Hadjiandreou’s excellent book ‘How to make Bread’ – and I have adapted his recipe in various ways, including using mashed potato rather then potato flour. As Emmanual points out there’s no need to knead it as there’s no gluten to be worked and its just a straight yeasted bread.
1 2/3 cup rice flour
1/2 cup buckwheat flour
1/2 cup of mashed potato
1/3 cup of oats (you’ll need to check that who ever is eating this can tolerate oats- if not you could use buckwheat flakes)
1/3 cup of sunflower seeds
1 tbls poppy seeds
1 tbls sesame seeds
1 1/2 tsp dried instant yeast
1 1/4 tsp salt
1 2/3 cups + 2 tlbs warm water
1 tblsp molasses
1. Mix together in a bowl, the flours oats, seeds, instant yeast and salt.
2. Add the mashed potato and stir in so that it is fairly evenly distributed
3. Mix the molasses into the warm water and add to the other ingredients and stir
4. It should now have the consistency of cottage cheese
5. leave it covered by a shower cap or cling film for an hour
6. Transfer it to a buttered loaf pan
7. Pre- heat the oven to 450 degrees C.
8. Cover the dough and leave for half an hour, or till it nearly reaches the top of the loaf pan
9. Sprinkle the top of the dough with sesame seeds and poppy seeds
10. Turn down the temperature to 220 and put a baking tray in the bottom of the oven filled with 1 cup of boiling water ( this will create steam and help you get a lovely crust)
11. Bake for 15 mins at 220- then turn the oven down to 200 and carefully slip the bread out of the bread pan and put it back in the oven straight onto the metal wrack (make sure you have good oven gloves for this)
12. When its nicely browned with a good crust all over and it no longer feels damp on the outside, take it out of the oven and put it on wire wrack to cool
Hope you enjoy it, let me know how you get on
It was a lovely bright day and when we got there we did a tour of the Mill. I believe this is one of only two tidal mills left in the UK . The earliest record of a tidemill on this site was in 1170, and it has been operating for over 800 years. It has recently been fully restored as a living museum and they mill twice a day, producing their 100 % traditional stone ground wholemeal flour. Check out their website (www.woodbridgetidemill.org.uk)
Below is a picture of the internal workings of the mill
I recommend going round the back of the mill and standing on the deck to look out on to the glorious Deben
As soon as I was home and I got going with a Sourdough loaf with my lovely stoneground flour. Whole grains need special handling to produce great flavour and texture, with a longer autolyse stage than ususal. (This is the stage when you mix the sourdough with the water and flour, before adding the salt) This gives the wholegrain flour a really good opportunity to start breaking down during the fermentation process, before adding the salt and the rest of the flour. The inspiration for this method comes from the wonderful Chad Robertson’s latest Tartine book ‘Book No.3 Modern Ancient Classic Whole’
2 cups wholegrain flour
1 cup strong white bread flour
1 1/2 cups water
1 tblspn refreshed starter ( I used white starter, see previous blogs for how to make this)
1 1/4 tsp salt
1. Mix together the starter with the water and make sure the starter is fairly evenly distributed
2. Add 2 cups of the wholegrain flour, cover with cling film or shower cap and leave overnight
It should look nice and bubbly by the morning
3. Stir the salt into the white flour and add to the sourdough mixture, mixing until all the flour is hydrated and cover again.
4. Leave it in a warm place – here’s mine on the mantelpiece above the fireplace.
5. With a spoon fold 3 times after half an hour. (see previous blogs for details) and repeat every half hour for 3 hours. If you need to go out and can’t do these extra folds, that’s ok- it’ll just take a bit longer
6. After about 3 or 4 hours it should have become spongey and billowy.
7. Put the dough on a lightly floured surface and stretch and fold and shape it into a round loaf shape (see previous blogs for details)
8.Flour your dough and place it either in a floured banneton basket or wrap it in a tea towel
9.. Heat the oven to 240 degrees F. with a medium or large Le Creuset pot inside, for 1/2 hour
10. Gently put your dough into the preheated pot and slash with a sharp knife. ( I slashed with a square shape)
11. Bake for 1/2 hour with the lid on and then 15 mins at 200 degrees, with the lid off
Makes great toast!
Last weekend was very special. Our book group went to stay in the Suffolk countryside for a weekend of indulgence – great meals, a visit to the stormy beach at Walberswick , country walks, wood stove fires, and I knew I couldn’t let them down on the bread front.
I drew my inspiration from Chad Robertson’s ‘Book No.3 Modern Ancient Classic Whole’, about baking fabulous bread using whole grains and heirloom flours. I think Chad is the master of creativity in bread making at the moment- and this book is a must.
I made two loaves- one was a malted flour seeded Sourdough and the other was a Kamut and Buckwheat Sourdough. This loaf was an experiment and I thought it might be a bit heavy, and that I would be left with most of it to take home at the end of the weekend. But not a bit of it- it was by far and away the favourite, so I thought I should share my recipe with you. I have to say, it was particularly good with strong cheese ( and we had plenty of that)
I mixed all the ingredients (bar the salt) on Thursday when I came back from work, and let it sit at room temperature until I was ready for bed. Then I added the salt and left it out over night. The next morning I shaped it and put it in a loaf tin which I then refrigerated . When I came home that evening I took it out of the fridge and we set off for Suffolk in the car, with the bread dough on my friend’s lap, warming up during the journey. I then baked it when we arrived.
1 tbl sourdough starter (see previous blogs on how to make your own sourdough starter, or order some on line)
2 cups water
2 cups Kamut flour
1 cup Buckwheat flour
2 tbl Wheatgerm
2 tbl diastatic malt flour- optional (order on line from Bakery bits)
1 1/4 tsp salt
1. Mix the starter with the water in a large bowl to break it up
2. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir until well mixed
3. Leave for 4 hours, then sprinkle on half the salt and fold several times, and sprinkle the rest of the salt and fold several times
4. Leave covered at room temperature overnight (or around 8 hours)
5. Its a fairly wet dough, so get it in to a loaf shape as best you can and sprinkle with Kamut flour
6. Put the dough in a buttered loaf pan, cover and refrigerate all day (or roughly 8 hours if you want a good sour tang- otherwise you can bake straight away)
7. Take it out of the fridge and let it come to room temperature (at least 2 hours)
8. Preheat oven to 245 degrees C. for half an hour
9. Put a roasting pan with a cup of boiling water in the bottom of the oven
10. Bake the bread at 245 for 15 minutes (it tends to get very dark quickly, so do remember to turn it down at this point)
11. Turn the oven down to 200 and bake for a further 20 mins
12. Bake at 180 for a further 10 minutes- take it out and let it cool on a wire wrack, unless everyone’s really hungry and they just can’t wait. In which case slice into it when its piping hot!
Just time for one more walk after lunch
And incase you were wondering- we read Diana Athill’s memoir called ‘Somewhere Towards the End’
Do visit Faith’s site : http://www.faithindesign.com/biography.html
This recipe has been sent to yeast spotting: http://www.wildyeastblog.com/2013/12/13/yeastspotting-12-12-13/